Little did I know that an unannounced stop in Ede Land, Nigeria, would be so life-changing.

It was a mid-Thursday morning when our convoy of 18-seater buses rumbled to life, embarking on a journey whose final destination remained a mystery to many of us. The excursion marked the grand finale of the three-day OsunSDG Creatives program, but among the group, there was speculation about one particular stop—Ede Land, Nigeria.

“What could possibly be in Ede?” I wondered. Apparently, I wasn’t alone in my skepticism. A fellow traveler, seemingly unenthused, stepped off the bus to inquire about an alternate route that would bypass Ede entirely. A few others echoed her sentiment, uncertain about what the town had to offer.

Yet curiosity soon took hold. As our convoy, flanked by a security patrol van, veered onto a new path, it became evident that Ede was our first destination.

Our doubts evaporated the moment we arrived. A symphony of drums, shekere, and agogo greeted us, their pulsating rhythms mingling with melodic voices in a mesmerizing welcome. The energy was intoxicating, sweeping us into an atmosphere rich with tradition. As I stepped off the bus, my eyes locked onto the bold Yoruba inscription at the entrance of a grand compound: Afin-Ilu.

A palace? At first glance, it seemed so. But I soon learned the true meaning—The Drum’s Palace. Prince Adewale Laoye, our host, confirmed this distinction after a spirited performance by the students of the drum academy.

A Legacy of Rhythm and Heritage

In the heart of the compound, an extraordinary display of Yoruba musical heritage unfolded before us. Drums of all sizes and shapes, each meticulously arranged, stood alongside striking cultural artworks, their presence whispering stories of the past.

“Omo mo wa gba mi o gba ike; Omo mo wa gba mi o gba ike” (“I want a good child; I don’t want an imbecile.”)

This was the song, Prince Laoye explained, that the four wives of Obatala—the ancient Yoruba deity—sang to their husband as he danced after his favorite meal, pounded yam. What began as a simple vocal melody evolved into something more profound: the rhythmic strike of a single stick on a drum. This instrument, known as Ilu Igbin, became the foundation of Yoruba drumming.

The Ilu Igbin—a four-piece drum set—is deeply rooted in Yoruba cosmology. It is linked to Obatala, the revered orisa believed to have descended from the heavens. In the ancient city of Ede, these drums stand proudly among countless others, each bearing its own history and significance.

Preserving Culture in the Digital Age

Founded in 2001 by Prince Laoye, a direct descendant of Oba John Adetoyese Laoye I, the Timi of Ede (December 1946–May 1975), Afin-Ilu is an extraordinary cultural sanctuary. It houses a vast collection of Yoruba musical instruments—sekere, agogo, and a multitude of traditional drums—all carefully preserved to safeguard an artistic legacy.

Afin-Ilu was inspired by the late Oba Laoye, a legendary drummer and dancer whose mastery of traditional music extended far beyond Yoruba land. His influence was so profound that even Queen Elizabeth II was once welcomed to Nigeria with the resonant beats of his talking drums.

Balancing royal duties with his passion for drumming, Oba Laoye became a global ambassador of Yoruba music, propelling the talking drum to international recognition. His legacy continues through Afin-Ilu, which now attracts scholars, musicians, and cultural enthusiasts from around the world.

On January 30, 2025, Prince Laoye addressed our group, emphasizing the enduring role of drums as a language in Yoruba society. “Drums are more than instruments; they communicate,” he explained. “They praise, they celebrate, they correct society’s wrongs.”

He also underscored the importance of leveraging digital platforms to promote cultural heritage. The Internet, he noted, has been instrumental in bringing Afin-Ilu global attention, attracting international visitors, and fostering new opportunities—most notably, a recent partnership with Africa’s first music city, a milestone in the institution’s growth.

An Unforgettable Encounter with Tradition

What began as a reluctant detour turned into an unforgettable immersion into Yoruba tradition. From the moment we arrived at Afin-Ilu, we were enveloped in a world where history and rhythm are inseparable. The hypnotic pulse of the talking drums, the joyful movements of the welcome party, and the wisdom shared by Prince Laoye transported us beyond the present—connecting us with centuries of cultural expression.

By the end of our visit, it was clear: Ede is not just another town. It is a living testament to the power of tradition, a place where the past sings and the drums never fall silent.